The Bold Soul: A Writer's Life in Paris

Calme

Paris has hit its summer stride, and that stride is what you could only call calme. Which is at least partly why there hasn't been much blog activity around here of late; not much is happening that's blog-worthy! A lot of Parisians leave the city for three weeks or more, if they can, beginning anywhere from mid-July. The city seems almost empty. Tranquille. In a state of suspended animation. Even the honey bees seem calm, though they're working. You can even find lavender growing in some parks... if you know where to look. Be careful that no one sees you picking a few of the fragrant blooms though: c'est interdit! Me, I waited until the two nearby police (who were calmly patrolling the park) left before sneaking three tiny stalks. In summertime Paris, there are fewer cars on the normally-busy streets, which makes walking or biking even more pleasurable. And certainly safer. People move more slowly, especially on hot days. And surprisingly (after June's terrible weather, which we were told might continue all summer long), July has proven to be extremely sunny and hot. Today seems to be an exceptional break, but the cooler temperatures and cloudy skies bring, literally,... Read more →

Paris Plage

Every summer since 2002, the city of Paris has created Paris Plage, which are outdoor "beach" spaces, mostly along the riverbanks of the Seine, for the public to enjoy for free. It started out with one small beach area and has grown considerably since then. There are play areas (with trampolines!) for kids, beach chairs and umbrellas, places to eat, and misting machines or showers to stay cool. There are even beach volleyball courts (with sand) set up in front of the Hôtel de Ville! Here are a few shots I took yesterday while strolling with Georges between Chatelêt and the Hôtel de Ville. I haven't actually visited the Plage in years but it seems there are plenty of people who are enjoying it! It takes a huge amount of work for the city to create these beach zones (and obviously they close off traffic -- normally there are cars racing past the river here!) Georges happened to take a picture at this exact spot the day BEFORE the beaches opened (just this past Friday), and he gave me permission to share his image so we could do a before & after comparison. Avant: Seems there is quite a lot... Read more →

Place de Clichy

We live a few blocks from the Place de Clichy in the northwest corner of 9th arrondissement, which is actually shaped a bit like a butterfly or a bowtie. The Place is sort of like Four Corners USA, the only place where four US states meet (Hey, can you name the 4 states without clicking that link or looking it up?), because the Place is the intersection of the 8th, 9th, 17th and 18th arrondissements. Two blocks to the north and we're back in the 18th and Montmartre; when I go to a nearby supermarket or Office Depot, I'm in the 8th; cross the street from there to have lunch at the and I'm in the 17th. If you're driving, the Place de Clichy is a place you want to avoid at all costs, if you can. It's a sort of oblong shape with 10 different streets feeding in and out of it. It's just a nightmare, normally. Now that the summer holiday exodus has begun, it's much quieter than usual, and on a Sunday in July or August, it's practically peaceful. Find the right camera angle and it can even be quite pretty, in its way. Read more →

Short but sweet

At least once a day, I look at Georges and I think: "How did I ever get so lucky?" Read more →

How you gonna keep 'em down on the farm

There's a shop across from the Luxembourg Gardens, just near Boulevard Saint Michel, that sells things for a garden or terrace. Seems they're starting to compete with the bigger (and more outrageous) shops along the river that sell enormous faux animals like alligators and pandas (although why you'd want a giant artificial alligator or panda on your Paris terrace -- or anywhere else -- is beyond me!) These little lambs and bunnies seem harmless enough, though. And see the little baby chicks in the background? Perhaps the shopkeepers are trying to help Parisians feel like they're "down on the farm" this summer? These ducks carved from wood were actually sort of charming. Perhaps for the weekend place in the French countryside? But THIS? This giant (nearly as tall as me) green polka-dotted rabbit? Would only make me think I'd had one too many cocktails. By the way, I decided to spare you all the hot pink plastic bulldog... posed in mid-leg-lift. And no, I'm not even kidding about that. Like I'd need another reminder that people around here don't pick up after their dogs? Read more →

Arcades

I love the light and symmetry of these arcades in a building across the street from the French Senate (at the Luxembourg Gardens). They feel cool and tranquil on a warm day. Read more →

Where the frogs and flies roam

Frogeo and Mouchette™ have been sticking close to home these days... but like all good Parisians, they make the most of their quartier. Take a little tour of their home: the Luxembourg Gardens! Read more →

What to wear (or not) in Paris this summer

I am hardly an authority on fashion, so let's just clarify that right from the start. I don't read Vogue. I don't go to fashion shows. I couldn't tell you when Fashion Week starts in Paris, New York or Milan. And I'm not the "right" size to wear most fashion trends anyway. If compared to Anne Hathaway's character in The Devil Wears Prada, I wouldn't have been as frumpy as she was in the beginning, and I would have HEARD of Prada, but otherwise I probably would have been almost as clueless when it comes to recognizing what designer made which bag, shoes or dress. That being said, when you live in Paris, you start to notice some trends, even when you're not necessarily paying close attention or when you're couture-impaired. So, for those of you who are planning on coming to Paris this summer and want to know "What are they wearing?" -- here are a few do's and don'ts based on my observations. 1. DO wear colors! The biggest color trend this summer seems to be coral. I've also seen red, royal blue, emerald green and even bright yellow. Floral prints are big, too. I've even spotted some... Read more →

Our Wooden Anniversary

I went to look up what the 5th wedding anniversary theme is -- you know how the 25th is "silver" and the 50th is "gold" -- and I have to say, I was a bit disappointed to learn that the 5th anniversary is WOOD. Like, are they serious? How is that romantic? Then I looked at some of the other traditional gift themes for the "early years" of marriage: Paper Cotton Leather (kinky!) Fruit or flowers WOOD Candy or Iron (How are these related?) Wool or Copper Bronze or Pottery Pottery and Willow (Like a tree?) Tin or Aluminum I have to say, where's the romance in having something made of tin or aluminum after 10 years of marriage? "Honey, you know what'd I'd really LOVE for our 10th? Something I can recycle!" Fortunately, modern times call for more modern thinking, and there are better alternatives nowadays: Clocks (good) China (better) Crystal (now we're getting someplace!) Appliances (Uh... ok, but no "housewife" stuff, though!) Silverware (score!) Wood (wait a sec... how did WOOD make it back onto this list?) Desk sets (are you kidding with that? Who gives a crap about a desk set anymore?) Linens or lace (meh) Leather... Read more →

Scenes from a Parisian summer

The recent and long-overdue patch of fine weather means all of Paris is out of doors, every chance we get. The Jardins du Luxembourg are really lovely, with the flower gardens and statues. This one, entitled "La Femmes aux pommes" is a bit less formally attired than some of the others, but clearly she's a French woman who wants to get a tan, like every other woman in France. One of the little outdoor restaurants in the Luxemboug. This one is special to me and Georges, as we had lunch there on the day we first met. But don't ask us what we ate because we honestly have no recollection of that -- we were too busy staring at each other, talking, and holding hands (and kissing a lot) already in that first hour! Maybe we'll go back sometime and see if the food is actually any good! These cherries I bought yesterday on Rue Lepic are absolutely divine! At 5.99€/kilo, I went back today and got another batch because we've eaten this bowlful already! (Well, mostly me, but Georges did his part.) I could pretty much eat nothing but cherries when they're fresh and sweet like this. Is it... Read more →