I awoke after a good night's sleep at friend's house to a dreary morning. But then I'm used to lousy weather in Paris so nothing phases me anymore. After a great breakfast (sure did eat well at their house!) we took a stroll down the street through the little village, Le Solliat, and back again. Hung out enjoying the morning and talking. After a great lunch (perch, caught fresh in the local lake that very morning, and fresh zucchini with risotto), it was time to head to the train for Geneva.
The trains in Switzerland are renowned for their timeliness and you really CAN set your watch by them. I had to change twice but it was easy. The last leg, from Renens to Geneva, was the prettiest... vineyards, sunflowers, and apple orchards with the glimpses of Lac Leman on the left. Sitting in the 1st class car (your Eurailpass entitled you to first class train travel if there is a first class car available - obviously smaller regional railways won't have that) with only 1 other passenger in there, it's lovely and peaceful.
At the Geneva train station, it took me a while to find the information desk, where the English-speaking girl gave me a map, told me which tram to take (#16) to the Old Town, stop "Molard", and where to buy a ticket from a machine (you can't buy it on the tram). Challenge #1 - the machine only takes coins or some sort of special plastic card, neither of which I had on me. So back into the station to buy some bottled water and break a 10 CHF bill. Then back outside... but I could not find the #16 tram stop! I went back in to the info desk and asked her again, and this time she said to go to the corner where there was a church and a hotel and it was there. So I did that... and found the church -- and FIVE hotels! And I saw all these numbered tram and bus stops but no #16. I spotted a large sign pointing back toward the train terminal for #16 but then nothing else. I wandered around for a good 5 minutes, dragging my luggage and lugging my backpack and getting more frustrated by the minute. Finally I spotted two men who looked like they might be "official" with blue wind-breakers and asked them where the #16 was and they pointed to the MOVIE THEATRE across the intersection - next to the church and one of the hotels. They also told me my stop would be 4 stops away. Voila! Nice to be still in French-speaking territory, I'll say that.
I could have gotten on that tram without paying, by the way. No one bothered to ask to see my ticket and unlike the buses in Paris you don't have to punch your ticket - this was just a scrap of paper. And the men were right - it was the 4th stop: Molard. Turns out this is on a really great shopping street! Woo-hoo! My hostel is in the Old Town and the Old Town is right along a big shopping area and just 4 blocks from the lake. So far this is sounding pretty good.
Then I caught a glimpse of the route I had to take to GET to my hostel... a charming pedestrian route with about one million steps up a steep hill! And me with all the luggage. Oy! But I had no choice, so up I went. I was wiped out by the time I got to the top, but I must admit it's such a cute little area. And at least when I leave on Wednesday it will be all downhill with the baggage.
Top of the last staircase (with two pretty fountains and passing several interesting antique shops), turned left and there was the Cathédrale Saint Pierre, in the Cour St. Pierre, and my hostel was #4, tucked into the corner in the Cour, just as advertised. I've never stayed in a hostel before. This was the Home St. Pierre, women-only. I rang the buzzer and they buzzed me in and directed me to the elevator to the 2nd floor. Got up there - found the desk and a very charming and friendly woman helped me check in.
Did I want breakfast every day for 7 CHF? Sure, it's doubtful I will find cheaper out in town, and it's convenient to eat here and then go. I asked if towels were provided; no, but 2 CHF would "rent" me a set of towels (Bedding is included.) Shared toilet and shower, but a sink in my PRIVATE room (I am too old to be ok with sleeping in a dormitory or sharing a room with strange college girls). And because I am NOT a student, she gave me a free city-wide transportation pass covering my entire stay! I did have to pay for the room in advance: 100 CHF total for 2 days, including towels and breakfast.
And free wireless internet. Hence this blog post, as I am tucked in my room right now at 11:42pm.
The room: basic, dorm-like, old building, but clean. An armoire with hanging space and a desk surface with chair, plus a huge cupboard with shelves (if you were staying here a longer time that would come in handy as it reaches to the 12-foot ceiling! Tiny bedside table with desk lamp, sink tucked in corner and clean. Bedding: a big fluffy pillow and duvet with white covers that appear spotless, and a top sheet for the bed, also spotlessly white. I checked on the communal WC and shower and they appeared quite clean -- certainly cleaner than in my dorm during college! I can already tell you I would recommend this place if you are a woman traveling alone or with a girlfriend or female family member, and staying just a few days. No boys allowed. FYI there is also a communal kitchen you can use, a dining area with piano and TV, too.
I got myself settled and changed clothes (so overheated from "hiking" up those steps). Then before heading out I checked my voice mail... and had a message from my father back home. My grandmother is back in the hospital again. He got called at 5:30 in the morning; her blood pressure was 200/105 so they had to send her ASAP. He spoke to her own doctor later in the morning, and the doctor had already seen her. She has "moderate" pneumonia in one lung and the UTI she has had for weeks is still there (or its a new one, but more likely the old one didn't ever quite clear up) so there is infection there.
This is not good. I don't think she can fight much longer and there is little point in trying to keep her going. Her dementia is getting worse every day. She's never happy, never herself. She's a mess, poor thing. The doctors want a few days to see if there is any point in trying to treat this but if she is not improving, my dad and I agree, as does the doctor, that we will let nature take its course and just keep her pain-free and comfortable.
I am not surprised by this news, although I am sad about it, but I actually kind of expected it. And you know what? It's time. She's had enough. She has no quality of life. So even though it will put a cloud over my trip, that is OK with me, because if it's her time then I'd rather she just go as quickly as possible rather than dragging out a half-life with no quality to her experiences. She's not in any physical pain but mentally... she's just upset all the time, and that is torture for her.
My father agrees with me that if the worst does happen in the next 12 days, I should continue on with my trip. That may seem shocking to some, but you'd have to know our family situation, and the fact that my grandmother has already planned and paid for her final arrangements. So her instructions will be carried to the letter... they will just be delayed a bit until I can arrange to get home. I'm the executor - they can't do anything until I get there anyway, and I'll have to come home for a number of weeks to settle the estate, too. There is nothing I can do for her now - except to finish this trip and take the notes that will become the book that was inspired by her own travel diary from 50 years ago. In a way, I feel like I should finish this trip and in so doing, it is honoring her.
She may pull through this. It's happened before. But I'd be lying if I said I wanted her to pull through. Not in the shape she is in now. That's not the person she wants to be, and this is not the life she wants for herself. She is ready to go. She's said so. She's just waiting for nature to get the hint.
After getting this news, I took myself out to explore the town a bit. It was around 6:30pm by the time I actually got out of the hostel. I started with a quick look around the Cathedral across the way, which was just closing up for the night. I can go back tomorrow, and might even climb the tower to check out the great view. (It is now midnight and the church bells are chiming some kind of hymn. At 11pm they chimed 11 times. This is pretty but I hope it's not going to go on all night! And there go the 12 "dong-dong-dong...")
Then I headed back down the steep steps, taking photos of the pretty fountains. Crossed the shopping street and into Place du Molard which had restaurants galore. Made a mental note of an Italian place that looked good, for dinner later. Kept walking toward the lake, destination: the Jet d'Eau.
This giant fountain right in the middle of the lake (well, in the middle of the marina part of the lake -- the lake itself is the largest in Europe) "jets" to 459 feet/140 metres with 132 gallons/500 liters PER SECOND. My grandmother has made a point of telling me I had to see this fountain, and I admit I thought "OK, it's a fountain, what's the big deal?" She was right... it is really impressive. Especially when you walk out on the narrow jetty to get up close. You can actually walk UNDER the spray if you don't mind getting soaked.
I walked quite a bit around the lake-front until I finally got too hungry and went back toward the hostel to find a restaurant. I settled on an Italian place where I had THE BEST PIZZA EVER, and that includes being even better than my favorite pizza place in New Jersey. I haven't had decent pizza even once in Paris, and this hit the spot.
I got back to the hostel at 10pm, exhausted. Did a little more unpacking, and decided to download more photos from the camera.
And now, it's time for bed. I've decided not to rush out of here at the crack of dawn tomorrow. I'll have plenty of time to see more of Geneva but for now I think I need the rest. Getting unpleasant news will do that to a person.
Don't worry though. I'm taking it in stride. My grandmother has had a good life and she got to do a few things that a lot of women in her generation never got to do - like travel a bit. Now it's my turn to finally get to see the world.
I know she's happy I've got this opportunity.
