I was supposed to meet a new friend for lunch today, but she came down with a cold overnight and as she is expecting a baby any minute now, she did the smart thing and decided to stay home and nurture herself. I got her text message just as I was about to leave the apartment because I had my phone turned off (silly me), so I headed back inside to regroup.
One of the things I love about Paris is that there is always, and I mean ALWAYS, something interesting to do. If you are bored in Paris, it's because you're just not trying. My problem is not in finding things to do, it's often CHOOSING from among the many options. I sat down with my Paris guidebook to see what might catch my fancy.
And then, inspired by this poster on my bedroom wall, which is one of my favorites, I remembered that the Robert Doisneau exhibit is still going on at the Hotel de Ville (extended through March 3rd, if you're interested - and it's FREE!) Problem solved -- off I went.
The exhibit was excellent and I splurged on the big book of Doisneau's work since I didn't already have any books with his photos. Leaving the Hotel de Ville, the sunshine was out and the temperatures were very mild so I decided to stroll towards the Louvre because there is a tea shop called Cador I wanted to revisit, having discovered it on my first trip to Paris in 1998.
Along the way, I took a few photos of my own and window shopped. I took a detour through a habitat store, making mental notes of the great stuff they sell for possible future decorating reference.
I had an amusing experience while waiting at a traffic light. A taxi rolled by... slowly, making a "bump-bump-bump" sound because one of its front tires was as flat as a crêpe. The taxi had a passenger and it appeared as though the driver did not want to give up his fare, so he kept bumping along through the intersection and on down Rue de Rivoli. After he was out of sight, I caught the eye of the Frenchman next to me who had also been watching this scene with some amusement, and suddenly he smiled at me and I laughed and said "C'est tout plat, eh?" I know that was probably all wrong in French but he understood and it was like we shared an inside joke - my first moment of feeling like I could share in a Paris moment with someone without feeling like an étrangère.
Sadly, Cador was closed - and I think it's permanent. The windows were whitewashed and there were no signs of life. In fact I peeked through a window and it looked like there was even old food in the cases - how sad, because it was such a gorgeous, elegant space with wonderful food. Maybe it's just under renovation, their name is still over the door; I certainly hope so.
Now in the mood for afternoon tea, I crossed the Seine by way of the Pont des Arts -- did I mention this is my FAVORITE bridge in Paris? Snapped off a few great photos on the way, then down rue Bonaparte to the nearest Laduree.
A note I made to myself while in Laduree:
French woman, trim and chic, sitting next to me orders a single, small boule (scoop) of chocolate ice cream for her tea.
I, on the other hand, ordered an entire ice cream EXTRAVAGANZA involving a scoop of chocolate ice cream, a scoop of caramel ice cream, caramelized hazelnuts and a mountain of Chantilly cream on top.This is why French Women Don't Get Fat; they know how to enjoy without overdoing it. Learn how not to eat as if it's your last meal on earth. Small pleasures are OK, but the key word is SMALL. Stop supersizing everything like a typical American.
After that, I caught the bus near Deux Magots and headed for home. It is delightful days like this -- days when you kind of make up your itinerary as you go along, and walk wherever and for as long as you feel like it -- that are a big part of why I love Paris. There is always something interesting to discover -- such as the church behind the now-defunct Cador tea salon that I've seen before but never walked into. I took a few moments today to check it out and discovered it has some really beautiful stained glass in its gothic windows, and a wonderful bell tower with beautiful bells pealing.
There are quaint shops everywhere in which you can window-shop (or shop for real). There are the booksellers along the Seine. There is the willow tree at the tip of the Ile de la Cite that today, I noticed was getting a haze of green leafy buds on it. There was a statue of Voltaire I discovered in a tiny corner "park" off Qual de Malaquais, in which I also saw a beautiful pink flowering tree. Cafés with people drinking coffee in the sunshine; people reading books on the metro to pass the time. It all adds up to being what makes Paris special.
That sound you hear is my happy, contented sigh.
