Today it was a GORGEOUS sunny and mild day here in Paris (second one in a row, too) and I decided I had to break out of the apartment and go do something outdoors. And suddenly it hit me - what a perfect day to commune with the dearly departed over at the famous Père Lachaise cemetery!
First of all, know this about Père Lachaise: it's not for the faint of foot or heart. It is MASSIVE and good, sturdy footwear is absolutely required. All the pavements are either cobblestones or you end up inching your way between rows of crypts and all the ground is very uneven. And it's on a hill, too; you enter at the bottom of the hill so it's literally all uphill from there. And some of the graves you might want to see are going to be WAY up in the top back corners, too.
When you come out of the Métro (Pére Lachaise) you'll see the walled edge of the cemetery and some of the tombs from the street. You can either enter right there through a doorway in the wall, which puts you at the lower left corner of the grounds, or you can walk along the wall to go in the main entrance. There's a gatekeeper for car traffic - the only vehicles allowed in are probably for family members (yes, you can still be buried there) and of course funeral traffic. Toward the lower right corner I discovered that they do have restrooms, too.
There is a printed map of the cemetery that shows the famous graves but I couldn't seem to find where you get it; possibly over near the restrooms but by the time I figured that out I was on my way home. I also saw a man selling maps by the Metro entrance when I was on my way out (he wasn't there when I went in.) You can also take an online tour (yes, the cemetery has a website) and before you go, it might help to see photos of the tombs you want to look for, to make them easier to spot - they're not always right on the paths but can be tucked away behind other graves. I photocopied a partial map out of my Paris guidebook but it was rather inadequate and I missed seeing several of the most famous graves as a result. The map I'm showing here is one I just made up to show how spread out all the famous gravesites actually are (and believe me, you have no idea how huge this place is). Guess I'll just have to go back another day because I missed quite a bit.
Now that the logistics are over with... this was the most fascinating place! I now understand why so many people go there. It's not just about where all the famous people are buried; I saw so many beautiful, quirky and downright creepy grave markers and tombs and I know I only saw a fraction of what's there.
Years ago I was in Martinique on vacation with a friend and we took a stroll through one of their cemeteries there. It was a lot like P.L. here in Paris with tombs and markers that are very ornate and many with photos of the deceased engraved on the marble or granite, or little raised tablets with messages from the person's loved ones. So I imagine this is common in France, to bury the dead and create a monument for them. I saw several women cleaning the leaves and debris from around someone's tomb, which helped me remember this isn't just a museum of famous dead people, it's a place that is actively in use by people other than tourists.
One marker in particular caught my eye and drove the point home. It had 4 squares on it, each with the name of a different person, none of them with the same last name and all of them had simply the year of birth and death. Year of death: 2006. Three of the four were born between 1962 and 1969 so all in their late 30's-early 40's (I was born in 1961). Those three each had a glass votive holder resting on their part of the tablet. The fourth was born in 1920 and also died in 2006, but had no candle votive. It made me think: did they all die together and were buried together? Were they related? Friends? Strangers? Did the older one do something to cause all of their deaths and that was why he had no candle to honor him?
Each person buried here lived a life and had a story to tell. Maybe their stories weren't as notable as Edith Piaf's or Frederic Chopin's or Jim Morrison's, but they lived, and someone cared enough to create a place for them here.
Now, because I know you're dying to see some of the other photos, here are a few of my favorites which I've categorized into several groupings. Click any image to enlarge it, then use your browser's "back" button to return here.
APPROPRIATELY CREEPY FOR A CEMETERY:
I have no idea what this was about but thought it was funny to see "worms" referenced in a cemetery.
This guy must not have liked his accomodations because he's trying to get out.
This is actually a monument to the dead and is considered quite a good sculpture.
JUST INTERESTING TO LOOK AT:
Nice art nouveau piece.
I don't know if this is written in Chinese or Japanese but it was so serene and I loved the touch of red.
With the name Lalique on this tomb you can bet that cross is genuine crystal of the best quality.
How I felt after about an hour of looking for Jim Morrison.
AND REMEMBERING
One of several memorials to French holocaust victims interred in concentration camps. This one, for Ravensbruck, had the biggest visual impact.
Edith Piaf, "The Sparrow", clearly still worshiped by her public.
Chopin, quite possibly my favorite classical composer (tied with Beethoven). I walked right by this while searching for it (I don't see how I could have missed it!) until I saw a group of Japanese tourists clicking away with their cameras.
And last but not least...
Jim Morrison. His "fans" have stripped the top of the grave long ago and now it's surrounded by police barriers to keep them away. Clearly a few managed to hop the fence and leave tributes. I'm not a Doors fan myself but took this because (a) a friend asked me to, and (b) it's de rigeur when you're at Père Lachaise. It's also a good way to meet other tourists because everyone is wandering around, totally lost, looking for Jim.
So much for my first visit to Père Lachaise. I'm sure it won't be my last. Until someone decides to bury me there someday when I'm a famous writer.
